External Word Clock

[Old School]

Y-My_R,
I'm gonna go back and try to assemble all of these informative posts of yours into a handbook. It's invaluable information, especially since it's tempered by personal experience. Thanks to you and all of you on this forum!

Have a blessed day,
Mike

[Y-my-R]

Thanks so much, Mike and David, for the nice words, and I'm happy to hear that this was helpful to you!

I used to work in tech support and at least "tried" to explain this sort of thing a few times before. So, in a way, I've been "teaching" this before, haha.

I re-read what I wrote, and a few things aren't really accurate and a bit misleading. Like, the "steps" aren't usually the same "height," unless we're talking about a perfectly even sine-wave.
For a more complex waveform, it's the difference in the height of the "steps" that describe the crazy up-and-down zig-zagging waveforms you usually see in recorded audio.

... and the bit-depth doesn't "only" contain the "distance" from the zero line, but a bit more info than that, AFAIK (for example, there's stuff like "interleaved" audio that combines signals into a stereo-data-stream and gives info which bits are for the left or the right channel... and some other extra data, that isn't directly related to the dynamic range, I think)... but I left that out, since that's not necessary for explaining what the sample rate and bit depth generally mean for the audio "quality." So, all of that was a bit more of a generalization, than an accurate description of what it really does.

So, while it's a nice idea to put these sorts of things into a handbook of sorts (thanks so much for even considering this - that's REALLY flattering and made my head grow a little, hahaha), it's not always 100% accurate. If this was a busier forum with more "experts" on these topics (self-proclaimed or otherwise) - such as on Reddit or Gearspace or so, I think I'd kick of a sh*tstorm with every such post, where more than half of the responses would be to prove that what I'm saying is wrong and misleading, hahaha

So, I think it's great if those who read along can get something out of what I'm sharing here... but I think it isn't really suitable for any sort of "official" handbook on the topic, since much of what I'm saying is either simplified, or sometimes even just assumptions of how I "think" this works (but then I usually add a note, when I'm not sure about it)... and sometimes, I'm probably plain wrong.

Anyway... again, I'm really happy to hear you found this helpful, and flattered about the nice comments. Much of what I post here are technically still only well intended "half-truths" though, haha

[csp]

Y-MY-R,

Even with the few mistakes (???) It was still the best/easiest description of clocking that I have read.

Re the TT24 the person that I purchased it from (it was basically wrapped up whern collected) had apparently been using it and unfortunately I did not inspect the UFX2 card before powering the desk when I got home from collecting it, only saw the situation a couple of days ago, when I happened to look at the back of the desk and saw that the name and model of the card was written upside down and that there was a small gap at the top of the area where the card was inserted.

I prefer not to have to remove the base cover as there are more screws than about 10 d8b desks (!!!) and as it is a wrap-around cover, once removed it is almost impossible to re-align the screws when replacing the cover, as the desk's frame is not rigid. Also everything is working in the desk (apart from the clock situation),

It would just mean that if using Light pipe from thr HD24, that Bank will have no effects as the Digital Bank (as the desk was designed) had no DSP on that Bank --- hence the need for the UFX2 card. I have not as yet tried to see if there is actually any DSP/Effects on that bank, if there is then it means that the card has been inserted correctly, but something inside the desk has been reveresd or that the UFX card's PC board has been removed from its face plate and screwed back on reversed (if that makes any sense in the way I have put it).

Might definitely have to dig out the donated d8b again and try a few new suggestions and possibly buy the spare cards that were offered to me before Christmas --- just more expence and possibly more wasted money !!!!!

Any way thanks for the clock info and 44.1k is Ok by me.

David

[Phil.c]

Just an idea about replacing the TT24 cover, use something like artists wooden paint bruxh stems, insert the ends through the cover holes and into the main body, use a few so that everything lines up. then put in the screws.....a better idea.....get that D9B working

Phil

[csp]

Phil,

Having had the bottom off to see why the monitor control was not working then batteling to put the bottom on, the brush stems would not work as the holes were too far removed, I had to use an small Alens key two long sash clamps and a smaller G-Clamp to finally get it all back together --- why I really do not want to do it again. The problem being that the actual metal frame of the desk is not a solid unit and it is the cover plate that is holding everything together --- even the four carry handles are supported 100% by the cover.

The idea about getting the d-9-b (!!!!!) working is definitely the best idea, it is just that it is going to cost me quite a bit more money to buy more boards and even thery it might not mak the desk work, BUT prior to doing that I am going to try a suggestion that I read somewhere a week or so ago and that was to remove the power ribbon cable going from the power distribution board to the DSP board and to very slightly bend the pins on the sockets to ensure a very tight fit, as that cable is apparently known to cause problems with the main problems being a complete lack of audio and the desk freezing requiring a re-boot. THE EXACT PROBLEMS THE DESK IS EXPERIENCING !!!!!!!

David