Don't Want to be confused...

[topdiggy2]

Its something more manageable. The power distrubution panel is bad. Thats why your LEDs arent working and you arent getting any power through your analog section.

In the database page, look under the maintenance section, under the part where it talks about the rail caps. Its not a rail cap problem you are having...but under that it talks about loose power supply cables.

I had this problem this week. And still do. My board boots up, loads cards and lights up and everything. But no response with cpu & no audio and no leds. So i opened it up and started playing with cables. I knew it was power related. Something wasn't grounding right on thw dsp or power supply pcb. But none the less, the twisting of the chassis as I picked it up and sat it on its side fixed it momentarily, again, another indicator that it was power related and something loose inside.

So, to make a long story short I swaped out the molex power cables coming off the power supply (grey 4 wire w/white ends) going to the board that sits behind the card cage.

Luckily I have a spare board i could pull parts from so i was able to repair it. Basically, the white power connectors become loose so you have press them back in to make a good connection. But in some cases where its too far gone, you have to replace the green part directly behind the power connector and the power distro board behind the card cage.

Then I took my hand and gave the braincard & distrubution card a tug (thinking it wasnt grounded properly and to "unfreeze" it). When working properly, the brain card will have a green & red light and the dsp card will have a green light. If you see red it stuck somewhere and the board is frozen (lit up like a xmas tree & frozen).

So my suggestion is stand the mixer up on its side. With the bottom removed, and power & data cable connected.

Dont disconnect any cables but rather press down hard to secure a tighter fit or better connection on those power wires I mentioned earlier.

After giving everything a good tug, power down and power back up and see if you get anything. Any signs of like, the faders calibrate, reset, led spike...anything. if you do, then you are on the right track. As the database suggest, some hot glue and contact cleaner (alcohol).

If not, then that power distribution card needs replacing.

But, I can tell you its a lot easier to replace the whole back section. There is a guy on ebay selling the whole back for $90 with cables and all. I bet you replace that section you wont have any problems.

Thats should do it.

I get about 24hrs at a time out of mine just lifting it up and playing with the cables. Im too lazy to replace the back section....actually, its been a busy week. Might do it tmrw.

But the fix usually last as long as you keep the board on (cirucit hot).

[topdiggy2]

....and yes I typed all of that on my cell phone sitting on the couch watching tv...sorry for the typos.

[p2h]

Thank Top, but no love quite yet...I think you're right with the ribbon cables or the entire part. Check the video and let me know--I'm taking your lead and getting the other board off ebay today...if that's what's you suggest?? I did notice that the red light under the apogee card was red too, but i'm assuming that's cool? Thanks.

[Youtube]5emdAN_cfJY&feature=youtu.be[/Youtube]

[p2h]

Sorry...

[topdiggy2]

Hey Ph2 -

Do you have a link to see whats happening on the front of the board? I just want to make sure we are on the same page...but i gather if yours is doing what mine did (see problems/symptoms listed below) then this is how i fixed it.

From the looks of it, the brain card is registering and outputing fine. If you are getting lights on the surface (pots, assigns, control rom knobs, etc.) and they are responsive on the board (you can select/desect, turn knob & see leds move/flicker, etc.) then the main control board is good.

SO, your only problem/symptoms are:
1. No audio in/out working
2. No meterbridge leds when audio input is hooked up to any channel.
3. No response on the screen from console movement (i was having this problem also until i reseated the big power cable and taped on the incoming power block)

Power Supply coming in, back of panel.

20140928_103317.jpg (Array MiB) Viewed 12579 times

My Youtube video [Youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEOjQpu-W5s&list=UUI5eVPDE51QfLZTLJFVhPzg&index=1[/Youtube]

Reference this:
http://www.sonido-7.com/d8b/maintenance.html#Post20
http://www.sonido-7.com/d8b/maintenance.html#Post21

Then something (specifically one of those DSP cards and or the power distribution panel) is not getting power. The analog section and meterbridge gets its power from the DSP board.

So, again. Its a good idea and a hell of a lot easier to replace the entire back section. After removing the side panels, there are 4-5 black screws on the side that hold the back panel together. Once they are out, the whole back slides right out. Just disconnect the cables and you are good to go. Be sure to note where they go!

I recommend doing the hot glue trick to stabilize the connectors on the new panel you are ordering. I have attached some pics here of mine to show you how its done.

hot glue example#1

20140928_101523.jpg (Array MiB) Viewed 12579 times

if playing with those connectors for you doesnt get any response, or signs of life....then your board is probably fried. And rather than trying to narrow it down, replace the whole damn back section and be done with it!

Sorry, I couldnt give you this solution earlier. Let me know how it works out.

[p2h]

Ok Top, check these two out: you can hear the faders "lock" at the bottom, sometimes they do and sometimes they dont...I thought it part of the loading/calibration sequence; but anyway, the part should be here by friday and maybe some of my mysery will leave and I'll be waiting on Munk's hui product!

[topdiggy2]

Hey -

funny you should send this to me now. I just finished replacing the back of my 2nd console just now. And it worked like a charm, just as expected.

Yeah, i cant tell from your last 2 videos whether the board freezes or not. Meaning, once your lights come on, can you turn a knob and see the levels move, or is it just lit up and stuck. None the less...my recommendations is the same. your dsp board is bad, shorted somewhere.

Also, make sure your power cable is screwed in correctly. Believe it or not, just because it screws down, doesnt mean its on properly. So when you turn on your board sometimes and it lights up like a xmas tree, check the connection. Just screw it off and screw it back on.

If you need to be walked through installing your part let me know.

[munkustrap]

@p2h

from your last video i expect, that you hav an issue on the dsp section. this controls the meterbridge therfore you see nothing on the meters.
the vpots and the EQ section seems to be working. that means the probox should work !

I sent you my debug program. there you can start a dummy meterbridge mode. so then you can check if your meterbridge is damaged.

best regards
Ralph/Munk

[p2h]

Thanks guys, yes--the board lights up and stays there...no control unless it's with the mouse. I wish I could have gotten that probox when my turn came around So, Munk-- do I re-order considering that the new part should work?

[munkustrap]

Hi p2h

I think i can help you but i need detailed information
About your d8b problems.

Is the firmware uploaded correctly ?
Can you control anything from d8b console to CPU (press select switch from a channel)
Can you control from cpu to D8b (switching and led goes on)
The fader doesnt work ?do they move sometimes?
What LEDs are lit or blinking on the brainboard and ddp Board?

Were you able to try out my debug program?

Best regards

Ralph