d8b Forum

Hi everyone.

I’m apologizing in advance for posting this since it’s drastically off topic, but I’ve spent days searching the internet with no results. While looking around the station for more missing hard drives for the HDR I got working in addition to multiple plug-in disks and MIDI cables for the d8b, I found in a “junk” closet a Mackie Control Universal - NOT the pro. This one looks exactly like it belongs with a d8b setup, and I initially thought it WAS part of the d8b until I really looked the thing over. I was fortunate to find the main unit but the power supply was nowhere to be found.

I located a “quick start” guide on the web, but it only says to “plug in the power supply.” I searched eBay for the power supply and that made things worse. I’m understanding that the unit needs 7.5 volts to run, but I’m finding sellers claiming they have a power supply to work with the Control Universal, but it puts out 7.5vAC. However, the plug on the back of the unit clearly shows the center pin as being positive. I could possibly build a power supply, but I need a definitive answer on what the Control Universal needs.

So can anyone tell me what the correct voltage/current output should be to power the Control Universal? Hopefully I can get an answer soon so I can delete this thread since it’s off topic.

Thanks, guys.

Aaron

https://www.amazon.com/adapter-Mackie-C ... B01CYZWR90

I would buy and try.

juanbanzai wrote:Hi everyone.

I’m apologizing in advance for posting this since it’s drastically off topic, but I’ve spent days searching the internet with no results. While looking around the station for more missing hard drives for the HDR I got working in addition to multiple plug-in disks and MIDI cables for the d8b, I found in a “junk” closet a Mackie Control Universal - NOT the pro. This one looks exactly like it belongs with a d8b setup, and I initially thought it WAS part of the d8b until I really looked the thing over. I was fortunate to find the main unit but the power supply was nowhere to be found.

I located a “quick start” guide on the web, but it only says to “plug in the power supply.” I searched eBay for the power supply and that made things worse. I’m understanding that the unit needs 7.5 volts to run, but I’m finding sellers claiming they have a power supply to work with the Control Universal, but it puts out 7.5vAC. However, the plug on the back of the unit clearly shows the center pin as being positive. I could possibly build a power supply, but I need a definitive answer on what the Control Universal needs.

So can anyone tell me what the correct voltage/current output should be to power the Control Universal? Hopefully I can get an answer soon so I can delete this thread since it’s off topic.

Thanks, guys.

Aaron

Hey Aaron...

Crash posted a link to a supply that should work... from everything I've been able to dig up, the important specs are an adapter delivering 7.5VAC @ 4 amperes. However, I'm not 100% sure what polarity the center post should be but if they're selling them they should be good - by that I mean that if the polarity wasn't correct units would be literally blowing out... just check the feedback for anything you'd plan to purchase, I'm sure if there's an issue some user has already reported it. There's a bunch of them on eBay as well - searching [7VAC 4A AC/DC Adapter] should pull up quite a few... adjust those search terms as necessary...

Happy hunting...

FWIW, regardless of it being 'off topic' per se, I think personally I would have posted this here too based on the (un)available data and it being pretty closely related to all the mackie gear in it's category... just my humble opine, tho - no harm, no foul man...

\m/

Pic of the original power supply for the old Mackie Control (not sure if it's the same for the new one, too... I'd expect it to):



...and, yes. I have the D8B and MCU (my chassis is the old "Emagic" type, but the guts are from an old type MCU) placed next to each other, and use them in combination all the time.

Most of the time, I use the D8B as a mixer, and the MCU next to it to control the DAW that feeds the D8B via ADAT optical.

I also have a ProBox that is connected to the D8B via an A/B switch (by default, the rack computer and console are connected. In the "B" position, the ProBox connects to the console via DB25 and to the computer via USB).

After the D8B finished booting as a mixer and I set everything the way I need to for this session (e.g. load a saved session for the track you're working on), then, if I need to control more ITB tracks, switch over to ProBox operation, and have a total of 32 channel faders available (D8B+MCU).

How exactly they interact with the DAW, depends on the DAW, but some DAWs give you additional options what each segment of 8 faders maps to. It doesn't have to be a simple "32-channel faders," but Logic, for example allows you to lock fader banks/segments to a specific function (e.g. busses and VCAs etc.), while still being able to dynamically switch assignment layers for other banks.

In short, a D8B and MCU combo can be very powerful, and when combined with a ProBox, can give you lots of ITB control options.

Having said that, the D8B wasn't really designed to be switched between the rack computer and ProBox while running... it happens often enough, that channel levels change when switching over to the ProBox. Then you have to go back and set the levels again, then try again... it usually works, eventually.

So, for a home-studio setup, IMO this should be fine. For a commercial facility, the repeated "fix it" attempts may look kinda unprofessional, though.

Because of that, if I have someone over (especially if its a paying client), I try to stay in one mode of operation for the whole session with the D8B (i.e. Mixer OR Controller) to avoid looking like a NOOB and sucking up time for troubleshooting.

Oh, and btw... I have 2 old MCUs and 2 Extenders... they all use the same power supply from Mackie.

Thanks for the replies, gents.

However, unless my knowledge of electronics has gone by the wayside, the picture of Y-My-R’s Mackie power supply for the MCU clearly shows the output power as being 7.5v DC. All of the power supplies being sold on Amazon are listed as being AC power supplies. Furthermore, the ones I saw on eBay all had the output power rating blacked out. Really.

I hope no one picked up the power supply from Amazon. I would imagine there are a lot of MCUs that have blown out by using the wrong type of supply.

juanbanzai wrote:Thanks for the replies, gents.

However, unless my knowledge of electronics has gone by the wayside, the picture of Y-My-R’s Mackie power supply for the MCU clearly shows the output power as being 7.5v DC. All of the power supplies being sold on Amazon are listed as being AC power supplies. Furthermore, the ones I saw on eBay all had the output power rating blacked out. Really.

I hope no one picked up the power supply from Amazon. I would imagine there are a lot of MCUs that have blown out by using the wrong type of supply.

Oh, I absolutely agree... it's a 7.5V direct current supply. I'm gonna have to slap my forehead here due to my own fat-fingered comment. Clearly I wasn't paying attention when I posted it with the search terms indicating 7.5VAC when in reality I actually meant/should have entered 7.5VDC, my Bad.

I can certainly understand your reluctance too... but I will say this, a good amount of these are supplied and subsequently marketed by Asian manufacturers. That's not any kind of bias, it's just the reality of the situation and things can get murky in the translation text - I'm sure they do the best they can regarding the usage of the English language. For the most part tho, if you see one for sale rated at 7.5V output it stands to reason it's gonna supply a DC voltage. Thing is, with Amazon if you want to return your purchase for almost ANY reason, they're gonna accept it. Make sure anything that's purchased is supplying 4 amps of current @ 7.5VDC and I believe you'll be Golden. Just measure the output with a meter, you should be able to read 7.5VDC at the connector, flip the probes around and you'll be able to figure out the center post polarity too if that bothers ya. Personally, I'd get one pulled up from an Amazon search for these very reasons (I do it all the time, too)...

Oh, and you know... if any of this is/was erroneous (yadda yadda yadda) I certainly stand corrected. And of course, you knew this was coming too, so here it is:

[Standard Mgmt Disclaimer] - "Your actual mileage may vary..."

Without seeing the label on the Amazon unit it's hard to know with confidence I suppose. But I think the way that it is listed is showing the AC on the input side. This is the same PS that people mention on Gearslutz or whatever they call it these days. There is a section on Amazon where you can get clarity on this if it makes you feel better by asking the company questions. The fact that it listed by the company as a direct replacement is good enough for me but I throw caution to the wind often.

Edit: Dok beat me to it.