d8b Forum

There's quite a long but buried thread here about a way to get around the demise of the on-line software registration. It appears that it's as straightforward (to the user - the guy who figured it out apparently worked pretty darn hard on it, so thanks). It looks like all that's required, after installing the 5.1 software, is to replace one file with the same-named file in the "crack" and use the serial numbers in the table provided.

I'd like to give it a try as long as I'm still in the "messing around" stage.

The console that I have here has the old motherboard (166 MHz Pentium) and what looks like 2 MB of RAM. I have a 30 GB hard drive in it, so there's plenty of room for the larger program. Anything I need to be wary about.when installing the newer OS? I remember seeing an article on tips for moving to 5.1, but I haven't been able to locate it. I'll probably hook up a new drive to do the 5.1 installation so I don't mess up what seems to be working in 3. And maybe, my two missing tape return channels will come back to life. \

Hi Mike,

I also have one of the older 166Mhz Pentium CPUs which I have upgraded to 5.1 using one of the two cracks that are available. My CPU was originally fitted with two 72pin SIMM memory modules (I'd have to check the old modules, but I believe it was 2 x 32MB modules). Rather than add two further modules into the two spare sockets, which I think was due to availability at the time, I opted to fit two 168pin DIMM modules (again, I'd have to check, but I believe that they were 128MB each, which is the maximum that the older 166Mhz board supports).
There is a post in the database that covers upgrading to 5.1 here.
While I was inside the CPU I took the opportunity to fit a larger (quieter) fan to the CPU, quieter fan to the power supply, and a solid state disk. The SSD made a huge difference to the boot time, save and load times were much improved, and general stability was improved.

(Edit) And it is (almost) silent....

Regards

John

Thanks for the insight on the 5.1 crack. I've read that article about the upgrade and additional memory requirements. I tried putting in a 168 pin DIMM and couldn't get it to go into the slot. All the notches and key bumps lined up, as did the ejection flippers, but was afraid to put any more pressure on it (and I was pressing it hard) for fear of damaging the motherboard.

Is there a functional difference between Hack 1 and Hack 2 other than different registration codes and a longer list in Hack 2?

While I had it open on the bench, I looked at the fan and tried to get it off to see if I could find a quieter one and couldn't figure out how. Looks like a hinge on one side and maybe a latch opposite it, but I poked at what I assumed was a latch and couldn't budge it. I probably shouldn't be fooling with this because my eyes are kind of wonky these days, and I have neuropathy, which takes most of the feeling out of my fingertips so it's hard to handle tools and I'm constantly dropping screws.

Time for a break.

Hi Mike,

Is there a functional difference between Hack 1 and Hack 2 other than different registration codes and a longer list in Hack 2?

Ultimately both hacks work in a similar way, by hiding the serial number embedded within the brain board from the Mackie OS, although they achieve it in slightly different ways:

1. The first hack (thanks to munkustrap) uses a modified firmware file. This works by returning a specific serial number to the OS, rather than the serial number from the brain board. This means that you need to enter a set of unlock codes that go with that particular serial number.
2. The second hack (thanks to jf_uk) uses a modified OS file. This works by completely bypassing the serial number check within the OS, which has the effect of immediately authorising all the plugins and 5.1 with no need to enter any unlock codes.

Installing the hacks can be done by FTP or by removing the hard drive and attaching it to a computer, rename the old file to something else, and copy across the modified file.

While I had it open on the bench, I looked at the fan and tried to get it off to see if I could find a quieter one and couldn't figure out how.

Your cpu cooler may be different to my original one, but mine had four screws holding the small (and very noisy) fan on to the heatsink. I simply removed the screws and the fan, and then fabricated a small bracket to mount a larger fan directly over the heatsink.

Regards

John

Thanks for the rundown on the hacks. Looks like #2 is the one to use since it totally bypasses the problem.

Thanks for the check on the fan. I had another look, and indeed there are four screws in the corner that remove it from the heat sink. It's the heat sink that I couldn't figure out how to remove, and unless I have to replace the CPU, I don't need to mess with it.

Now to go checking for a new motherboard. I think I recall seeing a reference on here somewhere that a later version is available from the original manufacturer (Amperon?) and is usable in the console. At the moment I don't see any of the parts sellers having a motherboard on hand.